This post covers my music player with web interface that I’ve added to my workshop (or, perhaps, I’d better call it “my lab”?) In this post I will walk through the messy details of making such a box and document all the tricky bits.
I have three devices in my bathroom: electric razor, trimmer for my beard and an electric toothbrush. Each of them comes with its own power brick and compete for a single 220v outlet. As a result I caught myself multiple times when at as one item of these is completely out of charge. Or, worse, the power bricks end up in a huge mess-o-wires you have to untangle. (like, the one you see on the left side of the photo below). And, since I deal with this in the morning when I’m in a rush to get myself out to work it’s even more annoying. At some moment I decided to fix that. I didn’t want to add more 220v outlets, since:
a). It’s quite difficult in that particular case
b). I didn’t want to keep all power bricks plugged all the time any way – I never really trust cheap power bricks and for a reason!
c). The total length of the wires gathering dust would re
d). I needed a shelf for these anyway 😉
Therefore, armed with a 3d-printer and aliexpress I decided to make it a bit different. The result you can see on the right half of the photo below. Build details follow.
Besides, if you liked this design, you can grab it on my thingiverse (link at the very bottom of this post).
This small tutorial will cover how to clone complex 2d parts with a flatbed scanner, inkscape and freecad. You may use this for any complex shapes that are too tough to measure using calipers. This technique can also be used to reverse-engineer complex PCB shapes to aid in creating custom enclosures. As a small example I’ll clone part of my archery fingertab.
Okay, I admit, adding a webcam to watch how your print is doing in nothing new, but since I plan on hooking 4 cameras, that might be considered novel. Anyway, in the earlier post I described the analog camera modules I’ve found in the attic and added a nice 3d-printed camera mount, in this post I will describe the other hardware part of my capture setup. But before the lengthy details – here goes a test capture from one of the cameras.
As you see the quality is not of the best and high temperature in the printing chamber contributes a lot to the noises from the camera matrix.
One of the few things that was annoying about my new 3d-printer was the thing that it didn’t have a proper way to keep the wires away from XY carriages as well as any filament guides. So, I fixed it. Twice!
To clean up the mess around my desk I made this nifty little instrument holder for all those hex wrenches and screwdrivers that I often use to service my 3d-printer. Made for P902, but should fit any other model with similar extruded aluminum frame.
I recently got myself a new toy, so to speak. It’s a brand new Flying Bear P902 3d printer. For it’s price (~300$) it’s an awesome machine and is way better made than my old 2nd gen Solidoodle. So I’ll be posting a series of hacks that I had to do to work comfortably with it and this is the first post in series, starting with this one.
Okay, time to introduce the rare reader to a brand new section of this blog: “archery”. Something that you’d never expect, right? And this will be the very first post covering this topic. Everyone who starts archery as a hobby soon has a terrible itch to cut down the costs on it… somehow. Since there aren’t many archers out there archery stuff is quite pricy, especially if you want to to compete on at least amateur level.
It’s been a hell of a summer with loads of work at my dull dayjob so that I’ve almost forgotten about everything including this very blog. However once the hell cooled down a little bit I found myself with a few spare days and my usual itch to tinker for a little bit with something. It happened I also needed another linux single-board computer to do some dull geeky stuff. Instead of ordering one from aliexpress once again I dived into the junk and found this little dead piece of hardware: